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REVIEWSCelebrate your next special occasion at Salty's2001-03-02 For those of us who have lived here for more than a few decades, a first introduction to Salty's seafood restaurants typically was on the night of a big school dance like prom or homecoming. I remember my first dinner at Salty's at Redondo Beach on homecoming night with a group of equally nervous friends. We were worried we would commit some huge dining blunder that would get us kicked out of the restaurant. Thankfully, we made it through the night without spilling our drinks and (mostly) using the correct silverware. Frankly, we probably would have had a better time at a burger joint. A decade later, I find an evening at Salty's much more enjoyable now that silverware choices no longer are frightening and seafood is something I no longer loathe. In fact, Salty's at Redondo is high on my list for celebration dinners in South King County. And it is one of few restaurants in South County (besides The Lobster Shop at Dash Point and Anthony's in Des Moines) where you can find fine dining and equally fine seafood. Come summer, Salty's at Redondo and Salty's on Alki are the places to take out-of-town friends and family (which is why you'll want to avoid the restaurant during peak tourism times). It combines two things that we Northwest natives and newcomers alike love to show off: our seafood bounty and our beautiful shorelines. But whether you eat there in July or December, you'll be impressed with solid seafood preparations. You won't find a cutting edge menu as you might at some of the more upscale Seattle waterfront restaurants, but you will find reliably good and interesting seafood dishes, impeccable service and a very beautiful dining room. And don't forget that majestic view. Both Salty's locations recently brought in two new top toques. At the Redondo Salty's, Todd Albert recently was promoted to executive chef. He's a 1989 graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and formerly cooked at the Salish Lodge in Snoqualmie. Albert previously was the chef at the third Salty's location on Portland's Columbia River. At the Alki Salty's, Byron Schulz was promoted from his position as sous chef to executive chef. Schulz spent a year cooking with Thierry Rautureau (of Rover's) and also worked at Virazon. The menus at both Salty's are a nice assortment of seafood with ethnic touches ranging from lemon-scented Thai jasmine rice to a spicy Latin American habenero aioli and an Asian style wasabi potato salad. Whether you order the salmon, halibut, trout, snapper or the tropical catch of the day, the fish inevitably will show up at your table cooked properly and paired with a tasty sauce or glaze. Two weeks after dining at the Redondo Salty's, I can still taste the delicate flesh of the blackened salmon with a mellow pine nut butter sauce ($20.95). The accompanying chickpea currant couscous was an airy success. Those who want a sample of all that makes Northwest seafood supreme should order the Pacific Northwest seafood stew ($21.95). Halibut, salmon, scallops and prawns float in a rich pumpkin colored tomato-tarragon base with poblano peppers and smoked sweet corn. The dish comes with toast points that are handy for sopping up the last bit of thick stew. Orecchiette pasta ($22.95) is perfect for the pasta lover who wants just a touch of seafood. A few smoked tiger prawns join bits of prosciutto and vine-ripened tomatoes in a thick cream sauce. The only thing bothersome about this dish was the abundance of whole cloves of roasted garlic. We would have been satisfied with just a few rather than the half dozen or so that came in the dish. Let's back up and talk for a moment about starters. If you want to do it right, forget the salad and order the New England-style chowder with clams, salmon, halibut and scallops. Big spenders can splurge and order the seafood trio for an appetizer. It's a little spendy at $19.95 for 2-4 people and $54.95 to feed 4-6. The small portions of Gerard and Dominique smoked salmon, Dungeness crab and poached tiger prawns are a light prelude to the more lavish seafood entrees. Is it a good value? Well, probably if you truly love chilled seafood, but the small servings certainly won't do much but tease your appetite. The starter menu has plenty of other well-priced options, such as the Dungeness crab, fontina cheese and oyster mushroom dip for $10.95 or the pound of steamed Manila clams simmered in an ale broth for $12.50. And a final note about the service. Dinner at the Redondo Salty's proved that service still is a top priority. Rarely will your conversation be interrupted with a water refill or an inquiry from your server. When you call and make reservations at either Salty's location, you'll be asked if you're celebrating a special occasion. It is, after all, a great place to celebrate. * * * SALTY'S Overall: 3 stars Eastside
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